Kamakura in a day
2025/03/07
Shibuya, 8:50 AM
Once we finally found each other in the mess of the rush hour, Sofia, Imane and I hopped on the first train to Kita-Kamakura. The sky was brilliant and empty of clouds, and the weather seemed to announce that spring had arrived.
Kita-Kamakura, 10:30 AM
Having packed our breakfasts, we sat on nearby benches and chowed down our breads and quiches. Walking down the main road, we arrived at Jochiji temple and began our small hike. A fresh stream glimmered between the moss and cobblestone.
Crimson camellias were in bloom on the trail. Squirrels hurried and birds chirped. Pines, beeches, and bamboo surrounded us. After a half-hour of marveling and climbing, we arrived at the Kuzuharaoka temple, with a variety of soft pink and fuschia plum blossoms budding. There was a perfectly clear view of Mount Fuji, too.
The hill was covered in camellias!
After a couple prayers and pictures, we sat down under the beaming sun, people-watched, and talked about the contents of our bags. Sofia had four lip glosses, I had five different types of medications, and Imane had plenty of space.
We strolled back down, taking another route. We stopped to chat with a very friendly granny, who had a lot to say about museums, and to point at which house we liked most. After deciding on what to have for lunch, we took the train to Kamakura.
Plum blossoms closely resemble cherry blossoms, but bloom a couple of weeks earlier.
Inaho Shokudo, 1:30 PM
We got lost because I couldn’t find the teishoku place we decided on, but managed to arrive after circling the neighbourhood for twenty minutes. Inaho Shokudo is hidden in a mall, on the second floor, and is definitely a favorite of mine. It’s a tiny restaurant with a few tables and a counter facing the kitchen, with original twists to teishoku classics. Imane and I had the yurinchi set (sweet and sour fried chicken) and Sofia had the chikin nanban (fried chicken with tartar sauce). We were only quiet when we ate, and by that time, we were starving - it was delicious. We had clam miso soup, the rice was moist and fluffy, and the side dishes were refreshing and flavorful.
Clearly Imane was moved by the beauty of the coast.
Kamakura, 3 PM
Our next destination was an hour on foot, so we headed straight away. We stopped to look at the many antique shops and boutiques, and for a sweet treat and a pee-break at the konbini.
There was a cooling breeze coming from the ocean, and the sky was still as clear.
The coast was breath-taking: blue-green waters, waves rolling in and crashing on the black sand, and fragments of ceramics and sea shells spread like a mosaic. I was reminded of how deafening the roar of the ocean is, with its powerful wind and eternal come-and-go.
Peering down the cliffs that ran along, we were lucky to see a flock of cormorants resting on rocks below us, while others dived into the agitated waters. We also spotted black kites (birds of prey) majestically hovering and circling above, and a single grey heron, to which we applauded enthusiastically.
Finally, we sat on rocks and Sofia and Imane blissfully fell asleep. I watched the sky slowly give into warm colors. The waves rolled and broke onto the rocks, one after the other.
Zzz…
Inamuragasaki Onsen, 4:30 PM
I woke my friends up because a cormorant was flying right before us - as much as they are skilled divers, they are rather pathetic in flight. The timing was right for a visit to Inamuragasaki Onsen. It is always so fun going to bathhouses with friends, to be able to share such a relaxing experience. I rotated between the two hot baths, the cold bath, and the dry sauna, all while watching the sun set behind Mount Fuji. The water came from heavily mineralized springs and had the color of black tea. We left invigorated, moisturized and glowy. We were beaming with joy, and seeing the sunset made us even happier. It was a crescendo of indigo and orange, and the sea blended with the mountains into a single shadow.
<3
Pacific Drive-In, 6:20 PM
It was completely dark when we arrived, after walking about a kilometer from the onsen. It was quite early for dinner, but we were already talking about sleeping on the train home. Pacific Drive-In serves Hawaii-inspired dishes, in an American dinner setting. Sofia ordered the mochiko chicken plate, Imane, the garlic shrimp plate, and I, the mixed plate. Sofia got us a plate of buttermilk pancakes with whipped cream for dessert, which disappeared in an instant.
Shichirigahama, 7:30 PM
The coast at night is simultaneously beautiful and terrifying - Imane told us that her family superstitiously believed that it was cursed to look at the sea after sundown. Enoshima island was not too far away, and we could see its lights sparing the darkness. We all had different ways home, so Imane tearfully parted ways with Sofia as it was the last time we were seeing her before she left Japan. I also felt crushed saying goodbye to her. Our day trip was such a gift, so I was grateful.
Home, 9:30 PM
After tidying my room and doing my night routine, I went to bed right away. I couldn’t stop thinking about how beautiful our day was. I wish everybody could experience such a sunny, wholesome, and restful day, though we walked over 20,000 steps. It was unforgettable - I wish this friendship and joy to everybody.
See you in Kamakura,
Mimi
